Assembling the wing is a very simple job. By design there are a few things you must do correctly in the proper order. The instructions on the full size wing build plan have these steps. I want to reinforce a few that are key.
The wing is designed to be built on a flat surface directly over the plans.
- Be sure your building surface is flat
- CA will not stick well to clear plastic wrap such as Gladwrap, so be sure to cover your plans.
In order to start your wing build you must get the trailing edge lower pieces aligned directly over the plans and secure them with weights or some other means.
The center beam must be square and centered. This is accomplished using a small square, and by dry fitting a ply end rib on each end. The end ribs with intersect with the TE sheeting and align the spar. Then you can square the center beam. After its aligned I glue the 4 center beam pieces together with thin CA along the mating edges and around the spar tube.
Once this done you can lift it off the building surface and thread ribs on. Adjusting the holes if needed. Sliding them in groups will help prevent accidental breakage.
Once they are all on lay the assembly back over the plans. With the center beam centered and align all the ribs exactly over the plan set. You can add some weights at each end of the spar to keep it centered.
This is important-Use thick CA and glue the ribs to the trailing edge first. With ribs aligned you can move the rear end slightly over and apply the CA, then set the rib in place.
AFTER all the long ribs are glued to the TE make sure they are all laying flat to the surface. You can use weights to make sure its held down sufficiently.
Do not forget when building the mid panels you need to build washout in. This is accomplished by taking a scrap piece of 1/16″ balsa or similar to sand a wedge that stretches as far as possible under the mid panel trailing edge. You need to raise the rear outer corner 1/16″. The wedge MUST be in place when you glue the long ribs to the spar. This wing has amazing torsional strength and its almost impossible to correct after the long ribs are glued to the spar.
Now you use thin CA to secure the LONG ribs to the spar. Whatever you do, do NOT glue any of the half ribs yet. You can just run a little CA on one side on the top surface. Do not worry about running CA all the way around. After the wing is assembled you can remove it from the building board and carefully run CA on both sides top and bottom where they are not completely glued, holding the wing on edge so the CA does not run.
Next you can apply the leading edge. All the half ribs are still loose, so line them all up over plans. On the center panel the LE is applied in one full length piece. Start at one end and work it into the notches. You can glue it with thin CA as you go holding the LE in by hand, or use clamps to help press in. I like using clamps because I can hold it in place, align all the ribs, and secure. If you do use clamps its best to use a piece of wood across the back side of the half ribs versus the spar because you could deform the spar tube holes if you clamp too tightly. Since the long ribs are secure, the LE will align the half ribs.
NOTE: The short ribs inside the center sheeting will not reach the LE. So leave those lose until the lower center sheeting is glued on. Those ribs are cut so the center sheeting fits correctly.
Several guys have struggled a little with figuring out how to fit the very end joiner ribs. These are ply laminated to balsa with balsa on the outer side for sanding in the angle. At the center panel each side is sanded to 5 degrees using the angle tool that comes in the bag with the fuse former’s. I have glued these together few times with Titebond and they warp. I have also left them out until I join the panels. The best method is the laminate them together with a thin coat of epoxy, then use the angle tool to sand in the angle. Then install them exactly over the plans the same as all the other ribs. I have found the fit to be much better the first time using this method.
On the carbon fiber tubes the 3mm tubes used for joining the tip panel to the mid panel are cut from left over material from the mid panel leading edges. The center panel leading edge is all used as one continuous piece. So you get 3 – 3mm x 750mm in the kit.
Before gluing on the upper TE you will want the taper the lower TE to a thin edge at the rear. You can use a thin ruler or other device as a guide or just eyeball it using the char edge as a guide. Once this is done you can glue the upper TE on. I use thick CA for this, but you can use Titebond if you weigh it down good while its curing. After the upper TE is on use the same process to sand the top of the TE to a sharp taper in the rear. This help the airflow as it departs from the TE when flying.
Tiplets-These by design are angled up by sanding the edge using the Angle Tool as a guide. I like the side for MT which is 5.5 degrees. This is partially for looks and partially to keep the air at the tip flowing over the airfoil. If they are installed with no angle I really do not believe there would be any noticeable difference in how fly’s but I don’t know for sure. Be sure to use epoxy to glue the tiplets on. CA does not work well in this location. Use a couple of pins from the rib side to hold them in place. Pull the pins out before the glue is completely cured.