When it comes to these items I find that everyone does things a little different. In many cases it just depends on what you have on hand and what you feel comfortable with. With that said I am sharing with you what I use. After building a number of these I have changed along the way when I find something else works a little better and I will update this as that occurs.
Weights
These 2 and 5 pound neoprene covered exercise weights work great for keeping things flat and holding parts in place. If I had a steel board and magnets I would be thrilled.
Glue
Thin CA with an applicator tip is used to adhere the ribs to the CF spars and leading edge.
Thick CA is used to adhere the ribs to the lower trailing edges.
6 Minute Epoxy or 30 Minute to join the tip-lets to the tips. I have used tape to hold them on but I have discovered that two pins in each from the rib side works much better.
I use Z Poxy laminating resin to bond the 1/64 ply reinforcement to the pod sides. If you don’t have Z Poxy then 30 minutes epoxy is fine. Just keep it thin.
30-60 Minute Epoxy is used on the entire pod and stabilizer mount.
Micro Balloons-I like to add it to my Epoxy to reduce the weight and make sanding easier. Its not a must be a nice to have.
Titebond Yellow Wood Glue-Many prefer this over CA, I really don’t use it much on the YJ. First of all, be careful using it on anything you laminating especially if they are large pieces. Such and bonding the balsa to ply ribs, or 1/64 ply to the balsa sides. The water causes longer parts to warp badly.
Sanding
I prefer Permagrit sanders because they seem to last forever. I have a sanding block with coarse on one side and fine on the other. The flexible blades are also great tools, I have both coarse and fine.
Sand Paper-for finishing I really like the foam blocks and some fine sand paper I get at Lowes or Home Depot or any number of places.
I have a small bench sander with a disc and a narrow belt. The disc is by far preferred for shaping the front and rear of the pod. Its a nice to have and save a lot of elbow grease.
Cutting-I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the CF tubes and rods. I also have a small inexpensive table saw with a diamond coated blade. While this is handy the Dremel is fine. There have been cases where I need to cut tubes and rods for kits due the size I purchased and the little table saw is great for that.
Caution, with that said I must advise that you should do a little research on cutting carbon fiber. You must keep the particles out of your eyes and lungs. As a builder this precaution is your responsibility to learn and only you can decide what measures you will take to stay safe. I personally use safety glasses and a respirator most of the time. Please do not take chances if your not sure.
Files and Reamers-There is photo of a round file on the right side. It came in a set with all the other files in the glass mug. I purchased the set at Harbor Freight. The ribs are cut intentionally to be snug, lose is not good. The tip on this particular round file is perfect for slightly adjusting the spar holes in the tip ribs. The largest OD on the file is perfect for adjusting the mid panel “B” rib spar holes. Then I just carefully and evenly work around the center panel holes using the laser char as a guide. What you will find is most of the balsa ribs will give as you press them onto the tube and mostly require no adjustment. Most of the ply ribs do require adjustment because they do not give. Additionally, the kerf on the ply is not as wide due to the nature of how it burns when laser cutting.
I also have a tapered reamer. This tool costs a little more but it really works well.
Drill Bits-After the wing is assembled I run a 5/32″ drill bit by hand through the joiner holes in the center and mid sections where the 5/32 OD aluminum tubing goes. Then I run a 3mm drill bit through the rib holes where the CF tubes join the mid panel to the tip panel.